I’ve finished my friend Nicks 14th century “tröja” or cotthardie or jacket or whatever you call it. That is actually often a problem to me, what to call a specific type of garment or piece of clothing. I could write an essay on the topic, but I wont, not today. (Read more about the problems with medieval terminology in the comments of this post.)
Here it is, anyway.
I made the pattern for Nick soon after BoW 2011, trading the jacket for some pieces of armour he’d make for me. That was a long time ago now. In my old computer I found pictures of the fitting-process. They must be from a post-BoW workshop on medieval clothing in the winter of 2011. I was there to help Maria and Peter out with teaching some details regarding seams and edgings, my special area of interest. Nick showed up to test the fit of his jacket. All work on edging, the collar and the buttoning were still left for me to do then, but the fit seemed to work out all right.
This week I made an effort to finish the rest of the jacket, since I will need that armour soon. There are a few things that help me get work done that have been undone for way to long. A bad movie (so that you don’t really have to look at it) and good company always makes it more pleasant to do the most repetitive work. For me the worst part is this rather boring buttonholemaking-business. I went over to my friend Johan for company and was sweetly assited by Katten…
I placed 12 cloth buttons along the front opening and 6 on each sleeve. I feel that it perhaps is a bit sparse in the front, but on the other hand twice as many buttons there (as I would have preferred) would take forever to button. I just couldn’t do that to a friend, could I? 😉
Nick picked a half-thick tabby weave for his jacket and asked me to line it with linnen. For myself I think I would have preferred a lighter and more stretchy twill without any lining. But except for that, the jacket is hand sewn in the same way that I usually do. I even made a tablet woven edge along the bottom seam with yarn I dyed on a plant-dyeing workshop during Battle of Wisby 2011.
Another time I’ll write more about how I actually do my tablet woven edges, buttons and buttonholes, but I need to take a few more pictures of the procedure before then.
So Nick, you jacket is ready and I hope you’ll like it. How is my armour coming out? 😉